Coffee Insurrection Heroes
Chapter #39Lars Aaen Thøgersen
Lars Aaen Thøgersen is a Danish coffee and sustainability professional and the CEO and co-founder of GrowGrounds. His work focuses on the future of coffee production, regenerative agriculture and the transformation of coffee landscapes through agroforestry. In this interview, Thøgersen discusses the environmental and economic challenges facing coffee, the role of farmers in building more resilient supply chains and why the future of coffee may depend on changing how it is grown.
Lars Aaen ThøgersenThe Interview · 13 Questions
Key Insights from Lars Aaen Thøgersen
- Lars Aaen Thøgersen is the Chief Innovation and Circular Transformation Officer at Löfbergs Group (one of Europe's largest coffee roasters).
- He got attracted to coffee in the late 90s by the Italian style of coffee — it was a real eye-opener.
- He went through the third wave of coffee as a real journey — first as a barista hero, then deeply into the business side and industrial parameters.
- His favorite thing about work: "Going to work means working for change" — initiating and implementing real change that benefits many people.
- He doesn't have a favorite brewing method — "Coffee is a rich and complex world" and he enjoys the variety.
- His best coffee is always the one enjoyed in good company — coffee is a social thing to him.
- His favorite origin: Kenya, specifically SL28 and SL34 — fragile varieties sensitive to climate change, with exceptional cup quality.
- His most important lesson: "Coffee is fragile and we need to take good care of it" — when we brew coffee, we use less than 1% of its total nutritional potential; we must do better with circular use.
- He recommends Pergamino Café (Medellín, Colombia) — they grow and roast their own coffees, working with small producers.
- His advice: Check out circularcoffeecommunity.com and eraofwe.com to build direct relationships with coffee farmers.
Introduce yourself: who are you, where are you from, where do you work and what’s your job.
My name is Lars Aaen Thøgersen. I am a coffee addict with a sincere commitment to lead coffee into a new and more sustainable direction. This is what my work as Chief Executive Officer in GrowGrounds.
When and why did coffee become important to Lars Aaen Thøgersen?
In the late 90’s I got attracted by the Italian style of coffee. It was a real eye opener to me.
What was the first coffee that changed Lars Aaen Thøgersen’s understanding of flavor?
I’ve had this feeling many times during life and my professional career. First, it was that feeling of enjoyment from experiencing that coffee could take many new formats. The third wave in coffee brought many new learnings into my life and for many years the barista was a real hero to me. Later, I got much deeper involved in the business side of coffee and I got to understand the industrial parameters and how we should strive to change these.
What does Lars Aaen Thøgersen enjoy most about working in coffee?
Going to work means working for change. This is my favorite thing. I have daily routines and I enjoy brewing my first cup of coffee when entering the office. But the real value lies in the fact that, together with our fantastic team, I am able to initiate and implement real change that benefits many people.
What’s your favorite brewing method and why?
I do not have one favorite method. I enjoy the variety. Coffee is a rich and complex world.
What is the best coffee Lars Aaen Thøgersen has ever tasted?
My best coffee ever, is every coffee I enjoyied in good company. Taste is really a variable for me. I appreciate the fruity but also complex character in some of the East African coffees, but over time I have repeatedly experienced the feeling that “this coffee must be the best I have tasted”. Most often, it is related to the context in which the coffee is served, the company you are in, and also many other factors. Coffee is a social thing to me.
Which coffee origin does Lars Aaen Thøgersen favor most?
No, not really. But if I really have to pinpoint particular ones I probably would aim for the traditional Kenyan varieties SL28 and SL34. Over time, these have become more difficult to get your hands on, especially because they are very fragile varieties that are sensitive to changes in climate and all major coffee diseases. The cup quality can be exceptional.
Suggest us a roastery to check (not the one you working at/you use at work).
At a field trip to Colombia I was checking out the Pergamino Café based in Medellin. They roast and grow their own coffees and work with small producers across Colombia. I really enjoyed the coffees there.
What’s the most important things you’ve learnt while working in the business?
That coffee is fragile and we need to take good care of it. We cannot just expect that coffee in good qualities will exist in just 10-20 years. With such a scarce resource in our hands, it is almost scandalous that we have not yet succeeded in a more circular use of coffee. When we brew and drink coffee, we use less than 1% of the coffee’s total nutritional potential. It is not good enough, and we must focus on improving it.
There are plenty of opportunities in the circular transition, and this applies to all actors in the coffee supply chain.
How your work and the specialty coffee world are coping with Covid and the new challenges for hospitality?
The pandemic has hit ourselves and actors across the value chain hard and fast. Many are struggling to survive and the industry must pull together to rebuild in a more sustainable way. I do see some potential lights at the end of the tunnel, and one of these is the coffee world’s embrace of the digital transformation. We need new digital platforms that can bind the many players closer together, speed up smart farming etc.
How does Lars Aaen Thøgersen see the future of specialty coffee?
The specialty coffee scene will become more industrial. We will see specialty coffees in new and larger distribution formats, and also the public will become more familiar with the people who grow our coffees.
Where does Lars Aaen Thøgersen see himself in 10 years?
I would love to be part of a wide embracing community working for circular solutions in the world of coffee. To experience the movement as it grow, and to feel the real benefits from this new way of doing things.
Any last word? Any tip or suggestion you wanna share with someone that want to start this path?
Check out www.circularcoffeecommunity.com and sign up on era of we. There is a lot of information to obtain and you even get the opportunity to create your own relationships with coffee farmers and other actors across the coffee supply chain.
Best Cup
"My best coffee ever, is every coffee I enjoyed in good company. Taste is really a variable for me. I appreciate the fruity but also complex character in some of the East African coffees, but over time I have repeatedly experienced the feeling that 'this coffee must be the best I have tasted'. Most often, it is related to the context in which the coffee is served, the company you are in, and also many other factors. Coffee is a social thing to me."
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Author
Tanya Nanetti is a specialty coffee journalist, writer, and coffee educator dedicated to documenting the people, places, and stories behind the global specialty coffee movement.She writes about specialty coffee shops, roasters, coffee origins, brewing techniques, sensory experiences, and the professionals shaping the future of coffee culture.As a certified coffee trainer and contributor to international coffee publications, including Barista Magazine and Standart Magazine, Tanya combines journalistic research with hands-on coffee knowledge to explore the evolution of third wave coffee worldwide.Through interviews, guides, and coffee stories, she helps connect coffee professionals and enthusiasts with the communities, craftsmanship, and innovation behind every cup.
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