Coffee Insurrection Heroes
Chapter #31Tommaso Bongini
Tommaso Bongini's Interview. Owner of Gearbox Coffee Roasters
Tommaso BonginiThe Interview · 13 Questions
Key Insights from Tommaso Bongini
- Tommaso Bongini (aka Tom) is the Owner of Gearbox Coffee Roasters and the 4th generation of the family roastery Caffè Mokarico (since 1936).
- He's based in La Torre, Tuscany (Italy) and is 33 years old, from Florence.
- Coffee became important to him when he left a boring job in Brussels (European Commission) to join La Marzocco UK in London — there he discovered specialty coffee for the first time.
- His first "more than just coffee" moment: a cupping event in London where he tasted a washed Gesha — "super bright, elegant and clean. Pure love."
- His favourite brewing method is the "Bravo" dripper — a device invented by his friend Francesca that he helped develop. "Complex to use but fun because it allows you to play with many variables."
- He doesn't rank coffees — "All coffees are good, even the one with tons of defects. Saying one is better than another is not constructive at all."
- He doesn't favour a specific origin either — "the first thing I look for is the emotion the cup can give me, regardless of origin, variety, process or price."
- He recommends Bugan Coffee Lab (Bergamo) — "they roast amazing coffees and have a super team."
- His 10-year dream: "Still roasting and working in the warehouse, not sat on a chair behind a desk" — even though he's already on the board of the family business.
- His advice: "Follow your idea, and don't get contaminated by other's thought."
- Notable: He scaled e-commerce during Covid (2020 > 2019; 2021 > 2020) — a fundamental tool for specialty roasters.
Introduce yourself: who are you, where are you from, where do you work and what’s your job.
I’m Tommaso Bongini, mostly know as Tom. I’m 33 and from Florence. I belong to a family of roasters: our family business, Caffè Mokarico, started in 1936 and actually I’m the fourth generation bringing the business on. I’m in charge for quality control, both on green and roasted coffee and I manage the Chinese market. Beside this, in 2018 I started my own brand, Gearbox Coffee Roasters, dealing only with specialty coffees. And when I say specialty I don’t like to talk about points or roasting degree. I mainly focus on the story behind the coffee I’m buying.
When and why did coffee become important to Tommaso Bongini?
My approach with coffee has been silent. In 2014 I was in Brussels working for a satellite agency of the European Commission, dealing with natural gas. Interesting but boring. I had the opportunity to move to London to work with the team of La Marzocco UK. There, I firstly met the specialty coffee world and the quality aspect that was a little bit forgotten in Italy at that time. There I got triggered.
What was the first coffee that changed Tommaso Bongini’s understanding of flavor?
Perfectly. Still in London, I was in charge to create a network within all the baristas in London. I went to an event which was basically a cupping (followed by pizza&beers): it was my first cupping and my first time slurping a Gesha. It was a washed one, super bright, elegant and clean. A coffee that nowadays would be considered as normal, compared to these funky processes are approaching the market. Pure love.
What does Tommaso Bongini enjoy most about working in coffee?
Since you are working on your own and for yourself, the best thing of going to work everyday is to know that you are building your own future.
What’s your favorite brewing method and why?
Despite thinking about Italy the first thing that comes to mind is the espresso, I definitely prefer the filter coffee. Specially using the new brewing device called “Bravo”. This one has been invented by a great friend of mine, Francesca, and I helped Her developing the Bravo since the very first prototype. It’s a device that improve some critical features of the classical dripper, such as the oxygenation and the cooling down part. It’s quite complex to use, but also funny because allows you to play with many variables. Definitely recommended it to a coffee nerd!
What is the best coffee Tommaso Bongini has ever tasted?
Still doesn’t exists. All coffees are good, even the one with tons of defects. In my opinion saying that a coffee is better than one other is not constructive at all.
Which coffee origin does Tommaso Bongini favor most?
Not at all. I don’t like even in this case, to prefer one country to another. When I buy a coffee, the first thing I look at it is the emotion that the cup can give me, don’t minding about origin, variety, process or price.
Suggest us a roastery to check (not the one you working at/you use at work).
Bugan from Bergamo. I literally love them. Not only because they roast amazing coffees, but also because they created a super team composed by great people.
What has Tommaso Bongini learned from working in the coffee industry?
Never get satisfied of your results. Never consider yourself as the best one, or even as one of the best.
How your work and the specialty coffee world are coping with Covid and the new challenges for hospitality?
Since I started Gearbox in 2018, I didn’t see a big difference with the Covid. In 2020 I roasted more than 2019 and 2021 has already overtook the total amount of 2020. Surely the pandemic pushed a lot the e-commerce which is, nowadays, a fundamental tool for a specialty coffee roaster.
How does Tommaso Bongini see the future of specialty coffee?
Honestly….I hope that this trend won’t grow that much, otherwise we would lose the control on the quality. For every specialty coffee consumer, there will always be a commercial coffee consumer. It’s like the wine or the beer or whatever you want: a better quality product is cool, but cannot be accepted (and understood) by the majority of the population.
Where does Tommaso Bongini see himself in 10 years?
I am already in the board of the CEO of my family business, but honestly I’d like to imagine myself in 10 years still roasting and working in the warehouse. I’m not done to be sat on a chair, behind a desk!
What advice does Tommaso Bongini have for someone starting a career in coffee?
Follow your idea, and don’t get contaminated by other’s thought.
Best Cup
"Still doesn't exist. All coffees are good, even the one with tons of defects. In my opinion saying that a coffee is better than one other is not constructive at all."
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Author
Tanya Nanetti is a specialty coffee journalist, writer, and coffee educator dedicated to documenting the people, places, and stories behind the global specialty coffee movement.She writes about specialty coffee shops, roasters, coffee origins, brewing techniques, sensory experiences, and the professionals shaping the future of coffee culture.As a certified coffee trainer and contributor to international coffee publications, including Barista Magazine and Standart Magazine, Tanya combines journalistic research with hands-on coffee knowledge to explore the evolution of third wave coffee worldwide.Through interviews, guides, and coffee stories, she helps connect coffee professionals and enthusiasts with the communities, craftsmanship, and innovation behind every cup.
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